Buying a
Porsche
944: information on what was standard vs. optional equipment, what to
look for, what to ask about.
|
If you have $4 - $15K to spend on a real fun machine, I have some standard "let's go looking" advice. Lower cost cars are older, high-milers, and/or "mechanic specials." Higher cost cars are often later years (say, '88 onward) and are low mileage cars, or a 944S, S2 or turbo model. I n general, "late" 944's cost more than "early" models; turbo (the Porsche 951) and S models cost even more, and the cost of maintenance are higher. Shop the newspaper, the internet, of find somebody with a Porsche Club of America membership and get their used listings from Panorama magazine. Examine maintenance records carefully. See when the timing belt was last replaced, and find out if the owner ever had to replace a water pump. Believe me, you'll be glad you did. If the records are not available, incomplete, or suspect, take the car to somebody that knows 944's and have it checked. In fact, do this anyway. The cost of this can help you save on possible big repair bills later. Of course, if you:
...Then never mind about the car's history... Factory Options: There were a few notable, major options to keep in mind and note: Sunroof (although most 944's came with this option), factory radio (Blaupunkt), five-spoke alloy "Fuchs" wheels, leather interior (partial or full), full power-adjusted seats, metallic paint, and a limited slip differential. Visual Lookover: Look at the coolant overflow tank for swelling and white cracks -- crazing -- that might indicate the motor had been overheated once. Bad. Of course, remember that it might have been replaced once. Does it look really new, no grundge? Also look for oil leaks under the car, and around the oil cooler assy (to left of motor as viewed from front; behind/below oil filter.) The cooler can blow out seals, which will allow water and coolant to mix if seals fail for any reason. This is very bad. If this happens, the oil on the dipstick will be a chocolate color, much like a milkshake. You might also see a brown sludge like color in the coolant overflow tank. Body: Look for body damage that might indicate the car was in an accident. If something is bent up front in the suspension, like a tie rod, you'll never get a good alignment and things will vibrate and be weird. You will not get 100% of the 944's legendary handling. Plus you'll burn through tires more quickly. A tip: look at the plastic wheel well shrouds inside the front fenders. If it's cracked (or gone!) the front end took a hit someplace along the line. For any vehicle over 150K miles, expect to replace front engine seals, front wheel bearings, rear carrier bearings, all rotors & pads, shocks/struts, and maybe CV joints, if these items have not been serviced already. Also a very, very good idea is to replace the motor mounts with the latest, 944 turbo mounts. This, and more, is what I did to an '84 944 with a blown motor and 150K miles on it. Turbo or "951" Cars: I'm not the turbo expert, having only driven but never owned one. On a turbo car, after 150K miles, it will probably also need a turbo rebuild to make it fresh again. Look for, and ask about, PO (Previous Owner) modifications. After You Bought It: Once you have the car, the cost of maintenance can vary. On a previously owned, well-maintained car, you need only do tune-ups and change the timing belt every 30K miles, and pay attention to the usual stuff like brakes, fluids, tires and filters. Replacement parts are the most expensive if you buy them from a Porsche dealer, so don't do that unless you absolutely cannot find a part any other way. The above is pretty much a getting-started procedure. Lots of patience and legwork in checking cars out will pay off in the longer run. Check out the 944
FAQ document. It has
lots of great info on model years, changes, and other stuff. Another place
of great help to the present or prospective 944 owner can be found by
joining Rennlist, THE online discussion forum for all Porsche cars.
To join, go to www.rennlist.com I now have a page online which
shows the two different 944
dashboards, including
a description of all the controls. This area of the car changed significantly
in the mid-1985 model year. The late '85 and subsequent 944 got a nicer-looking
and much-improved dashboard. The new layout is not only better organized,
but the efficiency of the air vents was greatly improved. On this latter
point, believe me; I've owned both and there's almost no comparison. The
late '85 dash is much better in terms of functionality, and, I believe,
in general aesthetics. I also have a page online which
shows the two different 944 fuse panels. This area of the car also changed
in the mid-1985 model year. Early
944's fusepanels are
located inside the car, to the left of the driver's feet, under the dash.
Fuses are the glass BUSS type, which are cylindrical in shape. The Late
944 fusepanel is located
under the hood, driver's side, at the rear. It is under a black plastic
cover which is gasketed to seal moisture out. The cover is firmly held
in place with 2 wire clips. Fuses are the newer, small plastic type with
two spade terminals.
|